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"Not only did Hornbein play a crucial role in one of the most extraordinary accomplishments in the history of mountaineering, his account of the feat is one of the finest things ever written about this peculiar, hazardous, and uncommonly engaging pursuit." —Jon Krakauer
* Special anniversary edition to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest via the West Ridge
* The West Ridge remains the least attempted and most deadly of recognized routes on Everest
* In 2012 major media covered two failed expeditions on the West Ridge; both teams are planning to try again in 2013
In 1963, Jim Whittaker became the first American to summit Everest via the South Col route. Roughly two weeks after Whittaker's achievement, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, fellow American mountaineers on the same expedition, became the first climbers ever to summit the world's highest peak via the dangerous and forbidding West Ridge—a route on which only a handful of climbers have since succeeded.
This special 50th anniversary edition reintroduces the adventure in a larger format with full-color photographs by members of the expedition, including leader Norman G. Dyhrenfurth and team doctor Jim Lester. In addition to a new foreword by Jon Krakauer, this volume also features a new preface by Hornbein along with a series of prefaces he wrote for earlier editions, including the original from 1965, and a map by Dee Molenaar. Updated bios of all the American Mount Everest Expedition team members, written by climber Broughton Coburn, are now accompanied by contemporary portraits from the expedition.
- Sales Rank: #249826 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-03-13
- Released on: 2013-03-13
- Format: Kindle eBook
Amazon.com Review
"If we can pull it off," said the climber, referring to a route up Mt. Everest's West Ridge, "it would be the biggest possible thing still to be accomplished in Himalayan mountaineering." To undertake such a route is to understand that failure is not an option; there is no turning back from the West Ridge. In 1963 Thomas Hornbein, the author of Everest: The West Ridge, and his partner Willi Unsoeld committed themselves to such a glory-or-death assault on the world's tallest peak. Their achievement is told within the pages of this book, one of the classic mountaineering sagas of all time.
Review
The classic book is a must-have for any Everest buff’s library. -- Cedar Rapids Gazette, Cedar Rapids, IA
About the Author
St. Louis-born Thomas Hornbein has been an avid mountaineer since his early teens, and his climbing adventures range
from Washington and Colorado to Pakistan, Nepal, China, and Africa. He was professor and chair of the Department of Anesthesiology at the University of Washington School of Medicine from 1978 to 1993. Today the retired physician lives
with his family in Estes Park, Colorado, and is a scientific adviser for Colorado University's Altitude Research Center. Hornbein
continues to climb on local crags.
Most helpful customer reviews
31 of 36 people found the following review helpful.
A DRAMATIC , EVEREST ADVENTURE DRYLY TOLD...ZZZZZZZ
By lawyeraau
This is the story of the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition which made mountaineering history. It saw the first Americans summit Everest via the South Col. It also saw the first climb of Everest by anyone via the West Ridge route, previously believed to be unclimbable.
Not only did Thomas Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld summit Everest via the West Ridge, they traversed the mountain and descended via the South Col route. They were, however, forced to bivouac in the death zone at 28,000 feet without any food, supplemental oxygen, or shelter.
One would think that such a dramatic turn of events high on Everest would be riveting to read. Wrong! Unfortunately, this is the one problem with this book. The story is told in a very dry, dull fashion. It is as if Hornbein were talking about flossing one's teeth rather than about a segment of mountaineering history of which he was an integral part.
Nevertheless, this is a high quality paperback with forty-eight terrific photographs that are sure to delight Everest junkies everywhere. No mountaineering library should be without this book, which recounts with detail one of the most significant climbs in the history of the Himalayas.
16 of 18 people found the following review helpful.
A Truly Inspirational Book
By J. L. Kelly
I first read this book in the summer of 1969, and it is anything but dry or boring. Hornbein's matter-of-fact narrative does nothing to diminish the drama and the risk inhering in any attempt on Everest, but especially one in which the climbers descend by a route which is completely new to them. Hornbein also worked very hard to select incredibly beautiful photographs and inspirational quotations from some of the most famous mountaineers of all time. These, combined with the narrative of his own personal odyssey on the West Ridge, make this book into a truly inspirational piece of literature. Those who require sensationalism and hyperbole will not like this book, but those who recognize the drama inhering in any "point of no return" decision to continue going on up will see that no hyperbole is required. The narrative of events is compelling, especially if one has ventured into the high mountains and feels their majesty with both awe and respect--and sometimes terror. For some reason this book changed my life, and those who respond to challenges with the desire to do something worthwhile with their own lives will see in mountaineering a metaphor for every great and risky enterprise.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
Among the best mountaineering books of all time. A must read.
By S. House
I started this book yesterday and stayed up until 3am to finish it. I admit I had not read it before, and I am completely sincere when I say its the best mountaineering book I've read. Fantastic writing. Great pacing. Great descriptions, an appropriate amount of introspection. Something tells me that if I'd read this book 20 years ago, I could have saved myself a lot of trouble.
I recently published my own climbing memoir, Beyond the Mountain, and have to say that I am in awe of how well Hornbein did putting together this amazing tale. As one who knows the difficulty of trying to put things down simply and honestly, my hat's off to Tom Hornbein.
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